Macaw Care Sheet

Incubation figures, feeding by life stage, and the things that actually go wrong with this species — on one page.

Incubation
26 days
Incubator
99.3–99.5°F
Humidity
45–50%
Lockdown
65–75%

Macaw Incubation

Forced-air figures. A still-air incubator runs about 101–102°F measured at the top of the egg — setting 99.5°F at the wrong height is one of the most common causes of a full-term chick that never pips.

WhereTemperatureHumidity
Incubator99.399.5°F · 37.437.5°C4550%
Last 3 daysunchanged — stop turning6575%
Breeding room7085°F · 2129°C5570%

Run macaw eggs DRIER than other parrots — 45–50% rather than 50–55%. Excess humidity is a well-known cause of dead-in-shell in macaws, where the chick is too wet to position and pip. Weigh the eggs and target 13–15% weight loss to pip rather than trusting a hygrometer.

The honest check on humidity is not the hygrometer — it is the scale. An egg should lose roughly 13–15% of its lay weight by the time it pips. Too little loss means the air is too wet; too much means too dry.

Feeding Macaws

What the diet should be day to day, and what changes when a pair goes down to breed.

Every day

Pellets as the base, with a genuinely higher fat allowance than other parrots — macaws need it.

Fresh food

Fruit and vegetables daily, plus nuts: palm nut, brazil, walnut and almond.

While breeding

Increase nuts as a conditioning food; keep calcium available.

Feeding chicks

Higher fat and higher volume while feeding chicks; soft warm foods daily.

What goes wrong with macaws

  • Unlike most parrots, too LITTLE fat is a real risk — hyacinths especially need a high-fat, palm-nut-led diet.
  • That said, fat without flight or exercise still causes obesity. Judge by body condition, not by the bag.
  • Powerful beaks: nest boxes and fittings need to be metal-reinforced.

General guidance used by breeders, not veterinary advice. Conditions vary by climate, setup and individual bird — watch your birds first and consult an avian vet for anything health-related.

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